have you done mains with engine in car

928racer;367 wrote: The "4" sounds more like pounds than degrees, from the few times I have seen degrees listed, it usually 90', 45', etc. "4" would seem to be an unusually exact number of degrees.

I agree. Further down in the manual when they talk about head torque they spell the full word like 90 degree.

I could have went the extra 4 lb/ft but I decided to loctite the nuts for two reasons. 1- to help the nut slide easier and after it reached 55 i gave it one more click. 2 - because I had the girdle up and down 3 times (torque & crush, plastigadge, final assm.) and reused the nuts.

I am more worried about the 6mm bolts that thread into the side of the cyl wall and only take 15 lb/ft torque. Don't want them to come loose but I couldn't thing of anything that I could use as a thread lock and just put them in dry. :confused:

I am confident that everything should be ok I hope.
In the fall when I pull it out I hope to go through it to make sure it will handle a power increase. :cool:

Still the timing belt to do, engine is still on chains, X mem and rack to install, rad and all frt eng goodies. AC to charge, oh and a CV boot. Then I can put the console back and the new stereo & speakers.
$#@& I wish it was done.

Thanks for asking.

Brad

OMG, of all the bolts to miss place. I can't find my front crank/balancer bolt.

Guess I get to tear the garage apart tomorrow. It must be here somewhere.

Last night I was cleaning the inside of the front rims, engine cleaner and pressure washer. Decide to install the drivers front. I was also working on finishing up under the pod but had to leave a post because i couldn't remember which yellow wires went were to the right side roll (wiper) switch.As I walked around to the passenger side I stopped dead and stumbled backwards two steps. There on the floor was the crank shaft bolt. I worked on the car till 1:30 last night. remember how you felt after a long project when you first started your car after many months, or when you first got it running. Thats how I feel.

Hopefully I get to see smoke out of the old girl today, and hopefully no leaks.
still got the new stereo, amp, sub and passenger side speakers to install.
Not sure where to tie the wires in from, the old wires go to passenger seat and then behind fuse block. ?????

Wish me luck

WOO HOO it seems to run great.
Some issues were me forgetting to reattach the top oil cooler line after I installed the cooling fans.
That ment another trip down town for more oil.
Second attempt was the upper trans cooler line blew at the crimp.
Another trip down to get some hose, cut the steel ends off and attach the new hose.
Third attempt showed a leak at the power steering pump hose. Cut the end off one and replaced the other with straight hose.
battery is dead and shorts out the charger.
Another trip down and picked up a deep cycle jell cell battery. $346
Due to the post in the center and off to the wrong side, the pos cable was to short.
There was a foot extra at the starter but it ment undoing every clamp between the starter and the battery. what a efin fiasco that was.

OK it runs without leaks, fuel gauge still inop, still a bat drain.
Found the rear defog switch light staying on, so I pulled fuses till it went out, diag it later. pulled the door light relay as well as it was clicking.

Last thing to tackle is the cooling fans are not coming on, but that's tomorrow.

Unseen problems will be the steering wheel may be out and alignment as well because I had the front control arms off.

tomorrow is sunday and I take the car on holidays saturday morning.
Nothing like cutting it close

Congratulations!

So overall, what do you think of the idea of changing the bearings as you did?