New oil pump and steel gear question

the question is does the tin washer behind the oil pump aluminum gear get used behind the new steel oil pump gear?

Thanks

Well I found the answer and it is NO.
When replacing the aluminum gear with the steel gear, you do not use the spacer/washer that was behind the aluminum gear.

correct Brad.......if the engine was originaly fitted with an Aluminium gear the washer that had been installed behind the gear should be omitted when using the new steel gear.

The OP nut should then be torqued with blue loctite to 30 ft lbs.

hope the engine spins over just fine with valves all straight

malcolm;14752 wrote: correct Brad.......if the engine was originaly fitted with an Aluminium gear the washer that had been installed behind the gear should be omitted when using the new steel gear.

The OP nut should then be torqued with blue loctite to 30 ft lbs.

hope the engine spins over just fine with valves all straight

^^What he said.^^

All of it.

To day I installed the belt and malcolm had suggested that at 45 deg, I could set the cams 3 teeth retarded.
Now I am not sure how the flywheel teeth line up but I believe I was right on the 45 deg mark and the crank lock was installed.

I use the suggested 3 tooth approximation and found that I had to turn both cams back 1 tooth.
So this is just a FYI that 3 teeth may work for 1 person but for me it was 2 teeth retarded with the crank locked at 45 deg
It could also be the way i count the TB cogs that mad the difference.

So once the belt was on I found that the leak I have been chasing was not the oil pump that I had just installed but the Long bolt from the front cover that goes through the water pump. Ya it was leaking coolant and washing down to look like oil.
How I figured it out was to taste the liquid and then I knew right away.
I temporally put a short bolt in the hole with an extra washer on the bolt so that it would not bottom out. (I threaded it in with my fingers testing the length to figure that out)

I connected up the 12 pin and 2 power wires (1 on the drivers and 1 on the passenger side)
Put the rad hoses on so that it wouldn't make a mess and spit coolant on the new belt.
Happy that everything was tied out of the way of the spinning belt i installed the balancer and pulleys and connected up the battery.
Primed it twice and then cranked it, primed it again and this time it fired right up and sounded as smooth as it ever did

I am very very happy and realize that that pain I sometimes get, must be those horse shoes shoved way up there.

Happy Happy Happy

the cam timing mark is actually on the valley between teeth.......count 3 'valleys' after the one with the cam timing mark retarded for 45 degree BTDC timing.

glad to know you finally managed to get the car running.

a pic for easier comprehension:

Attached files [img]media/attachments/14780=1786-cam gear.JPG[/img]