MY87 5 speed running issues

I think you have failed to follow the advise given by Brad about your ground wire on the engine block. When he said to check it that means that you take it off and look at the surface of the connection on both the wire end and the block.

What you said you did was look to see that it was secure, that you saw some corrosion on it, and that you cleaned the corrosion off with some kind of remover.

The problem with that is that when you have corrosion on that kind of connection it is not the corrosion that you can see that is the problem, but rather the corrrosion that has occured within the connection that you cannot see that is causing the loss of conductivity. Making it look good from the outside and having it feel secure has done NOTHING about whatever corrosion there likely is within the connection.

Do it over and do it correctly this time.

Of course, with your luck this is going to have nothing to do with your problem.

Jerry Feather

As to you EZK, check the Vendor offer at the head of the 928 OC Forums for the offer from Rich Andrade at Electronik Repair, Inc. for free testing. For about the same amount of trouble involved in shipping a loaner back and forth it seems to me that simply shipping yours to Rich for free testing and him returning it is just about the same. Then if it is found bad by Rich he can repair it; and he is one of the best places to have that done, and he is reasonable.

But, I would properly clean the ground in question first.

Jerry Feather

In fact, now that I think about it there are something like 14 ground points on the 928. I think it will be a very good idea for you to do the research about where they all are and CLEAN THEM ALL.

Jerry Feather

Jerry, is quite correct with the above...CLEAN ALL YOUR GROUNDS! That said, it is NOT brain failure if the car will start that is FOR SURE! With brain failure it will NEVER start. So at least you don't have that $500-$700 expense looking at you...

If the engine will spin on the starter, but not run, the problem is likely to be one or more of the following:
- Too little fuel. If you kneel by the rear bumper and listen as the engine spins, you should hear the buzz or whine of the fuel pump. No buzz or whine, no start.
- Too little fuel. Use a mechanic's stethoscope (available from Harbor Freight or almost any auto parts store) to listen to the injectors as the engine spins. There should be a regular clicking from the injectors. No click, no start.
- Too little fuel. With the ignition switch on, but the starter not operating, listen to the injectors. If they are clicking, the LH ECU has failed.
- Too little fuel. If the Temp II sensor on the top of the coolant cross-over on the top front of the engine or its connection has failed, there will be no cold enrichment, and the engine will be very difficult to crank cold.
- Too little fuel. If there is a sizable vacuum leak, the fuel mixture will be too lean. The engine will be difficult to crank, and the idle will be poor.
- Too little fuel. If the fuel pump has failed, or the fuel hose between the internal and external pump has failed, or the fuel regulator has failed, either fuel flow or fuel pressure may be too low.
- Too little fuel. If the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor sends a faulty signal to the LH ECU, too little fuel may be injected.
- Too much fuel. If the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor sends a faulty signal to the LH ECU, too much fuel may be injected.
- Too much fuel. If the fuel pressure regulator or fuel pressure dampeners diaphragms are leaking, the pressurized fuel will leak into the intake manifold after the engine is shut down. If you try to start the warm engine, it will be "flooded" - that is it will be too rich to run. The engine will also idle poorly due to the rich mixture.
- Too much fuel. If the Temp II sensor on the top of the coolant cross-over on the top front of the engine or its connection has failed, the engine may receive cold enrichment while warm, and will be very difficult to crank when warm. The engine will also idle poorly due to the rich mixture.
- Weak or faulty ignition. The later cars basically have two four-cylinder ignition systems. If one system is faulty, the engine will be hard to crank, and idle and power will be poor. The most common problem is a faulty coil wire.

There are many, many other possible problems. Use your nose to detect too much or too little fuel at the tailpipe. Use an inductive-pickup timing light to check for spark at each spark plug. Use your ears, aided by a rubber or plastic hose, to listen for a vacuum leak.

Report what you find, in exact detail.

Just to give you an update. I finally found the issue causing my no run issue. It was the 14pin connector that connects the wiring harness and the ECU's. I still have a high 1000 rpm. so it's probably a vacuum leak. Any suggestion how to check?