spring start up

That is the best I believe. Just start them every 4-6 weeks.

It seems there is a lot of different opinions on this subject. I've read a lot of threads on RL and RW on what is best. I've come to the conclusion that letting it sit until you can actually get it up to full operating temp. for a while is the best thing. No periodic starting and letting it just idle. It doesn't get hot enough to burn off the water. That made the most sense to me, so that's what I've been doing.

That is a very good point Rick and very true.
In the manual it says not to warm them up by idleing them (think its hard on the cam)
And yes the oil has to get hot to vaporize the water and burn the it off.

If you cant warm the engine through idling when can you drive?

My car wont drive until its ran for a min of 5 mins......yes, the intake has to come off, again:mad:

malcolm;4054 wrote: If you cant warm the engine through idling when can you drive?

My car wont drive until its ran for a min of 5 mins......yes, the intake has to come off, again:mad:

Sounds like a cousin to my saga. Had the intake refresh done and then it suddenly started running poorly. Turns out a $20 hose had been re-used rather than replace. Made no sense since I replaced everything (@$2k in parts as I recall) with the intent of ending up with a reliable car. It still doesn't run right. I am really questioning the Magencor ignition wires, as I have replace coils, control units, plugs, caps & rotors. I even have the IMR bypass relay in.

What I decide not to work on myself, I take to a shop that I respect, not the same shop that did the work the first time.

Sorry about the vent.... I do have the right attitude though, I didn't think I would get a GT but I have one, and don't ever envision selling it. Whatever it takes to fix it, I will get done

I've now started the car a few times and the same issue it had when parked remains and somewhat worse than ever (hardly surprising as I didnt do any work over the winter).

The issue: from overnight cold the engine starts but stumbles slightlys at what seems on all 8 cylinders. It also sounds as if its sucking air from somewhere under the intake. After a good few mins of running the sucking sound disappears at the same time the engine smooths out. Of interest the warm smooth idle is approx 900 rpm. This condition remains until the engine is parked for many hours and is again stone cold. Performance of the car is very good.

Last year I removed the fuel rails and injectors thinking I may have had a bad oring but all are good so I'm now left with pulling the intake again to further search for mysterious air leak.

Pervious intake refresh competely replaced all hoses and gaskets , cleaned/rebuilt the injectors, cleaned and checked the ISV operation, checked TPs etc etc

I started removing the fuel rails and will report progress on a new thread.