Installing a two-post lift

4" minimum is just that, minimum.6" gives you more anchor depth for more strength. I have the same lifts that Dave Tassinari has and the base flanges apear to be wider than the picture of the one you want to buy. Also there is no overhead tie bar which helps with side to side stability and over all rigidity. The bar in your picture on the floor is to protect the hydraulic lines.
Since you have a 4inch slab, I would feel more comfortable if you were to weld on fore and aft supports to the base flanges so you could spread the load further out on the floor and you could add more anchors.Also when drilling the floor for the anchors, drill at a slight angle in different directions on each of the holes for strength. I also prefer the epoxy anchor kit from Hilti for the anchors. You don't want to skimp on the hardware.

personally I would buy a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch plate and bolt it to the plate, then bolt the plate to the floor.

I like over kill

Note: do you live in earth quake country where the car could be in the air and you under it?

Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net;13944 wrote: I know Dave Tassinari installed two in his garage and they hold his 928s. At one point I had my Suburban on one, much heavier than a 928.

If you provide an email, I can drag Tass into the conversation, perhaps ideally here, so others can be informed on the requirements as well.

This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Thanx Stan!

N

928mac;13984 wrote: personally I would buy a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch plate and bolt it to the plate, then bolt the plate to the floor.

I like over kill

Note: do you live in earth quake country where the car could be in the air and you under it?

Good question, but I've already researched that. I've been told that Florida is geologically very stable. The whole state is basically a big coral reef, and coral is very brittle. If we had earthquakes here, then the whole state would be under water right now.

N

I hope you give us a review of the lift when its up and being used. Thats a heck of a good price. Wish I was closer to "help" you use it.

Hi all

My lifts are Rotary brand and I bought both of them used. They are what I would consider commercial quality and very rugged compared to some of the imported stuff I have seen recently. I bought the first one about 15 years ago for 2,000 and then the 2nd last year for 800.00 (local c-list score).
My floor is about 5" of mesh reinforced concrete and I used the wedge type anchor bolts. The rotary brand uses a larger base plate than most I have seen so the loads are spread over a wider area.
My lifts are the asymmetric style. This design allow you to open the car doors without hitting the lift structure. The down side is that the car's weight is not as evenly distributed front to back as it might be on a symmetrical design.
If I had concerns about the strength of the concrete, I would definitely go with a symmetrical design that distributes the load straight down.

A few years back, our neighbors and good friends lost their 16year old son to a car lift accident. He is a professional mechanic and his son was working for him. As more and more of these things get into home hobby garages, I sometimes worry about the potential for tragedy. Please don't ever take the safety aspect for granted ! You will see in the pictures that whenever I have car in the air, I throw a safety stand under it just as an added precaution. It prevents shaking and movement of the car if you happen to be yanking on something

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