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- Proton_Ice
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13 years 8 months ago #12416
by Proton_Ice
Replied by Proton_Ice on topic Vin
Hi guys,
Verifiy engine oil, seems good, clear and enought to try to start.
Put a booster after the battery and try.
The enfine turn but not start. I don't made more tests.
This week-end i will change engine oil to be sure and all other liquid.
I will see with Quebec authority (SQ), if the car can pass test to put it on the road
It will be bad to put this car on part !
So the picts :
Verifiy engine oil, seems good, clear and enought to try to start.
Put a booster after the battery and try.
The enfine turn but not start. I don't made more tests.
This week-end i will change engine oil to be sure and all other liquid.
I will see with Quebec authority (SQ), if the car can pass test to put it on the road
It will be bad to put this car on part !
So the picts :
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13 years 8 months ago #12450
by wallyp
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com
There are, of course, many, many possible causes for the non-running condition, but the first thing to check are the critical relays. Relay XX (Fuel Pump), Relay XVI (EZK or Ignition), and Relay XXV (LH or Injection) must all work, or the engine will not run. All of these may be replaced with any of the standard "53" relays in the panel.
We will start with the most common failure, the fuel pump power circuit. Get a helper. Kneel by the rear bumper and have the helper operate the starter. You should hear a buzz or whine from the fuel pump as the starter operates. If not, check Fuse #42 for power as the starter operates. If there is no power as the starter operates, Find Relay XX (Fuel Pump) and Relay XII (Horn). Blow the horn to make sure that the horn relay works. Swap the two relays. Kneel by the rear bumper and listen for the fuel pump buzz or whine as the starter operates. If still no whine or buzz, make a relay jumper.
Get a metre of lamp cord or zip cord. These are the common USA terms for the two-conductor flexible wire that is used to connect a table lamp to the electrical outlet. Get an automotive single-pole single-throw toggle switch that has "OFF" and "ON" clearly marked. Get two flat, male, 1/4" spade electrical connectors, plus any connectors that are needed to connect the switch. Put the two 1/4" male connectors on one end of the lamp cord, and the toggle switch on the other end. The jumper may now be used to temporarily substitute for any of the critical relays.
Remove Relay XX. Look at the diagram on the side and locate Terminal 30 (Battery Power) and Terminal 87 (Load) in the relay socket. Make sure that the toggle switch is off and plug the connectors on the relay jumper into Terminals 30 and 87 in the relay socket. Turn the toggle switch on, and listen at the rear bumper for the fuel pump whine or buzz. No fuel pump noise, no start. If there is no fuel pump noise, go back to Fuse #42. Check the fuse and the fuse connector for any sign of overheating or corrosion. Check the fuse. Make sure that the connectors are tight, so that there is some resistance to inserting and removing the fuse. Listen again for the fuel pump buzz.
If the fuel pump does not run, you will need to remove the cover under the rear bumper and check for power at the pump.
Let us know what you find - be verbose and precise.
We will start with the most common failure, the fuel pump power circuit. Get a helper. Kneel by the rear bumper and have the helper operate the starter. You should hear a buzz or whine from the fuel pump as the starter operates. If not, check Fuse #42 for power as the starter operates. If there is no power as the starter operates, Find Relay XX (Fuel Pump) and Relay XII (Horn). Blow the horn to make sure that the horn relay works. Swap the two relays. Kneel by the rear bumper and listen for the fuel pump buzz or whine as the starter operates. If still no whine or buzz, make a relay jumper.
Get a metre of lamp cord or zip cord. These are the common USA terms for the two-conductor flexible wire that is used to connect a table lamp to the electrical outlet. Get an automotive single-pole single-throw toggle switch that has "OFF" and "ON" clearly marked. Get two flat, male, 1/4" spade electrical connectors, plus any connectors that are needed to connect the switch. Put the two 1/4" male connectors on one end of the lamp cord, and the toggle switch on the other end. The jumper may now be used to temporarily substitute for any of the critical relays.
Remove Relay XX. Look at the diagram on the side and locate Terminal 30 (Battery Power) and Terminal 87 (Load) in the relay socket. Make sure that the toggle switch is off and plug the connectors on the relay jumper into Terminals 30 and 87 in the relay socket. Turn the toggle switch on, and listen at the rear bumper for the fuel pump whine or buzz. No fuel pump noise, no start. If there is no fuel pump noise, go back to Fuse #42. Check the fuse and the fuse connector for any sign of overheating or corrosion. Check the fuse. Make sure that the connectors are tight, so that there is some resistance to inserting and removing the fuse. Listen again for the fuel pump buzz.
If the fuel pump does not run, you will need to remove the cover under the rear bumper and check for power at the pump.
Let us know what you find - be verbose and precise.
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com
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13 years 8 months ago #12451
by ROG100
The "Master" has spoken - that post is worth your 928OC membership 20x plus.
What a beautiful and unique car - the colors are amazing. Needs a lot of cleaning and maintenance but WELL worth the money. This car must be saved and I would buy it from you if you ever think of parting it out. GREAT FIND.
Check the driver’s door jamb to confirm the color please?
What a beautiful and unique car - the colors are amazing. Needs a lot of cleaning and maintenance but WELL worth the money. This car must be saved and I would buy it from you if you ever think of parting it out. GREAT FIND.
Check the driver’s door jamb to confirm the color please?
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- Proton_Ice
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13 years 8 months ago #12471
by Proton_Ice
Replied by Proton_Ice on topic Vin
Thanks a lot Wallyp you're a real Master !
Thanks too Roger, more i see the car, more i thaught this 928 need to go on road.
I'm not hurry with this car, because my 928 black works very well, so i will try to start the engine and after during this winter dismount all that it need.
I prepare oil etc.. to try tomorrow the Wallyp procedure to start the car.
More info after job tomorrow night.
Thanks too Roger, more i see the car, more i thaught this 928 need to go on road.
I'm not hurry with this car, because my 928 black works very well, so i will try to start the engine and after during this winter dismount all that it need.
I prepare oil etc.. to try tomorrow the Wallyp procedure to start the car.
More info after job tomorrow night.
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13 years 8 months ago #12472
by mm928
1983 928S - 16v 4.7L L-Jetronic
Slate Blue Metallic w/ Blue Leather
85/86 exhaust manifolds
Y-Pipe
SS Hi-perf Cat
S4 springs
Bilstein shocks
Air pump delete
VIN: WP0JB0926DS861180
- - Isn't Life great? - -
My hat is off to you guys that take on cars in condition like this or worse. You guys are the real deal in my book. I would not have tried that my first time for sure. Even now, knowing what I know, it is probably more than I am interested in doing. Maybe if I had all the car stuff already in my garage or was a former or closet mechanic of some type!
anyway - it is great to see these cars staying around and coming back to life!
anyway - it is great to see these cars staying around and coming back to life!
1983 928S - 16v 4.7L L-Jetronic
Slate Blue Metallic w/ Blue Leather
85/86 exhaust manifolds
Y-Pipe
SS Hi-perf Cat
S4 springs
Bilstein shocks
Air pump delete
VIN: WP0JB0926DS861180
- - Isn't Life great? - -
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