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what oil should look like,
928mac;11256 wrote: I normally only run break-in oil for around 1 hour at 1800 rpm.
The neighbors hate you if you have loud or even worse open exhaust.
Then I drain and run normal required oil for 2 to 3 hours with usually a drive in the middle.
Draining that oil and putting in the fresh makes sure that all the contaminates are out and not hammered into the bearings.
The next change I run up to 3000 kilometers or 2500 miles.
then 5000 k or 3800 miles.
This is just my quirkiness as a mechanic while breaking in a high/perf engine that I have spent maga bucks on
This sounds like a very good practice, Brad. Thank you for posting. I have made a mental note.
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Ducman82;11340 wrote: well it does not look like metal to me. i do have some Blackstone labs oil sample kits (from when i had my diesel) and i plan to change this oil, and take a sample and send it out. one thing that is could be also is the Moly engine assembly lube. but we will know more later .
Yes, If the pistons and cams and journals are all were covered in white grease (Lithium Grease) then it will look very creamy.
That is why I only run it for 1 hour in the driveway with no load at 1800 RPM especially if you have new cams (or follow the cam break-in procedure)
Then dump the oil and change the filter while its hot.
Put in fresh oil and run it for a half hour and then drive easy for 1 to 1.5 hr then let it run in the driveway at 1000 rpm for 15 min and cool and do another oil and filter.
At this point all the rebuild metal and stuff should be gone.
Try not to go full throttle for a 1000 or more miles to seat the rings.
This depends on if they are moly rings or what and how good the cylinder walls were done.
Chrome rings sometimes never seat and it will always burn oil.
Of coarse our engines are different.
New factory engines are mechanically spun at the crank with no plugs in them to seat and test the engine before it gets to the dealer.
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